有机健康食材 高档亚裔风味
子承父志 圣路易斯 Grand 花园餐厅开幕

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Cevin Lee poses with his daughter, Alana, and mother, Phan Ly, at Hong Kong Express on South Grand Boulevard. (CAROLINA HIDALGO | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO) Cevin Lee 和他的女儿Alana, 妈妈 Phan Ly

【圣路易时报讯】1980年越南华裔Chau and Phan Ly夫妇移民来美,就进入餐饮业工作,不久后在Forest Park 附近开了自己的第一家餐厅Chinese Express。 第二年儿子Cevin Lee出生,1990年在2247 South Grand大道再开了Hong Kong Express 餐厅。那时儿子Cevin也高中毕业去了加州学金融。在儿子心中开餐厅并不是第一愿望。

Cevin Lee poses behind the bar of his Garden on Grand restaurant. CREDIT NANCY FOWLER | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO
Cevin Lee poses behind the bar of his Garden on Grand restaurant.
CREDIT NANCY FOWLER | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO

没想到 ,到了加州第二学期, Cevin突然觉得脊椎后背疼痛不已。只得休学,回到圣路易斯。 经医生检查确认是得了强直性脊柱炎,而且已经蔓延到胸腔和肩膀。医生说 「这种病18岁的你会像80岁的你一样」。

Cevin回忆当时,他和父亲抱头痛哭,整个家庭陷入阴霾,尤其是Cevin还有一个完全卧床的妹妹。在後来的几年里 Cevin 凭借着毅力和药物治疗,尝试在网上找到各种食物偏方。终于发现了蔬菜素食治疗的效果,疼痛减轻不少。

The door to Cevin Lee's Garden on Grand is just a few steps away from his parents' Hong Kong Express. CREDIT NANCY FOWLER | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO
The door to Cevin Lee’s Garden on Grand is just a few steps away from his parents’ Hong Kong Express. (CREDIT NANCY FOWLER | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO) Hong Kong Express 和 The Garden on Grand 餐厅紧邻

于是,Cevin 想到为何不来一家高档健康食物的餐厅,而餐厅最好就开在爸色的餐厅旁, 经过努力真的就开在爸色的餐厅 Hong Kong Express 正旁边2245 South Grand 。

Cevin有一个8岁女儿Alana,她平时没事就在這兩家餐厅廚房玩耍,帮忙切蔬菜和面玩。小小的Alana说了,就算到厨房很好玩,我也不要开餐厅,我宁愿当个厨师做好吃的菜。

Eight-year-old Alana watches as her grandmother, Phan Ly, demonstrates how she makes pot stickers in the Garden on Grand kitchen. CREDIT CAROLINA HIDALGO | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO
Eight-year-old Alana watches as her grandmother, Phan Ly, demonstrates how she makes pot stickers in the Garden on Grand kitchen.
CREDIT CAROLINA HIDALGO | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO

正如同Alana的爸爸一样,Cevin从小也曾说过,我不要做餐厅。但是Cevin现在有个愿望,希望和Alana一起经营餐厅。是的。这样的话就是三代了,Cevin说 「我希望这个梦想会实现」。

All in the family: Garden on Grand owner embraces his restaurant roots
, St. Louis Public Radio

Cevin Lee of St. Louis never meant to follow in the footsteps of his parents, who’ve run Asian restaurants for most of his life.

But a health crisis led Lee back to the family’s passion for food, and recently, to open his own restaurant, Garden on Grand,2245 South Grand Blvd. — next door to his parents’ Hong Kong Express. It was something he once swore he’d never do.

“I saw how difficult it was for them to run a restaurant, the sheer exhaustion from working morning until nighttime, every day,” Lee said.

Now his 8-year-old daughter is growing up in both kitchens. Lee, whose quest to live a pain-free life led him to organic food, is happily introducing her to the family business.

“She likes to cook, especially when we do it together,” Lee said.

Growing up in the kitchen

Lee, 35, grew up playing among bags of rice while his mom and dad rattled the pots and pans. Playing in the kitchen and absorbing the aroma of onions and stir-fried meat are among his earliest memories.

Lee’s parents, Chau and Phan Ly are of Chinese descent but grew up in Vietnam. They came to St. Louis in 1980, the year before their son was born, and worked for free in a relative’s restaurant to learn how to run their own.

Not long after their arrival, they opened their first restaurant, Chinese Express, on DeBaliviere Avenue, near Forest Park.

“I remember just hanging round in the front of the dining room and just being bored, “ Lee said. “Just waiting for customers to come in a talk to me, and tipping me randomly.”

Phan Ly laughed and remembered how her Cevin (pronounced Kevin) was “a very active boy, you know, talkative.”

The Lys opened Hong Kong Express, 2247 S. Grand Blvd., in 1990 and later sold Chinese Express. After graduating from Mehlville High School in 1999, Lee went to California for college to study finance. In his second semester, he began suffering from a mysterious, excruciating back pain.

Cevin Lee poses behind the bar of his Garden on Grand restaurant. CREDIT NANCY FOWLER | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO
Cevin Lee poses behind the bar of his Garden on Grand restaurant.
CREDIT NANCY FOWLER | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO

“It would feel like a knife stabbing through my back,” Lee said.

After moving back home, a doctor diagnosed him with ankylosing spondylitis, a form of spinal arthritis that had moved up to his ribcage and shoulders. He recalls how he and his father hugged and cried when they heard the doctor’s words.

“The doctor said, ‘You’re 18 and all of a sudden you’re 80,” Lee said.

It was a very difficult time for the family, which includes Lee’s younger sister. He was completely bedridden.

“I had to urinate through a red gallon gas tank with a tube coming over my bed,” Lee said.

Over the next few years, anti-inflammatory drugs brought some relief. He gave up favorite foods like pizza and tried every suggestion he found online.

“Like doing raw garlic on an empty stomach just to see if my immune system would react in a different way,” he said.

Then a friend brought him alfalfa, broccoli and radish seeds and showed him how to grow them hydroponically — without soil. For three months, he ate only the sprouts of these plants. And he got better.

“I didn’t feel pain for the first time in 10 years,” he said.

Eight-year-old Alana watches as her grandmother, Phan Ly, demonstrates how she makes pot stickers in the Garden on Grand kitchen. CREDIT CAROLINA HIDALGO | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO
Eight-year-old Alana watches as her grandmother, Phan Ly, demonstrates how she makes pot stickers in the Garden on Grand kitchen.
CREDIT CAROLINA HIDALGO | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO

Three generations

As Lee added tomatoes, zucchini noodles and other organic foods into his diet, he thought: why not open a more upscale restaurant based on healthy food?

It made sense to locate his more upscale restaurant next door to his parents’ place, which does a brisk takeout business. Lee’s a real estate agent and has helped the family buy up most of the block.

He got local award-winning chef Kore Wilbert on board, and two months ago, they opened the Garden.

The menu includes coconut fried rice, organic baby kale salad and Australian lamb, as well as hamburgers and chicken fingers. But sprouts and zucchini noodles? Lee’s still working on getting the zucchini’s texture just right and adding a hydroponic garden on site.

“The things that I really want, that helped me, are not on the menu just yet,” Lee said.

The bar at Garden on Grand is made of one long slab of red maple. CREDIT NANCY FOWLER | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO
The bar at Garden on Grand is made of one long slab of red maple.
CREDIT NANCY FOWLER | ST. LOUIS PUBLIC RADIO

Garden on Grand boasts numerous live plants, exposed brick walls and a huge wood-slab bar and tabletops. Lee got most of the red-maple wood — 10 thick slabs, each 10 feet long — from a Craigslist ad for $2,000.

As her son talks, Phan Lee admires the décor of his restaurant and beams at him from across the table.

“I’m proud of Cevin,” she said.

Next door at Hong Kong Express, his daughter Alana is often in the kitchen, where she likes to chop vegetables — and play with dough.

“Sometimes I make faces with the dough,” Alana said.

Even though she enjoys being in the kitchen, Alana doesn’t see herself running a restaurant when she grows up.

“I don’t really want to be the boss. I just want to cook food,” Alana said. “The boss doesn’t do anything. They’re just on the computer a lot. So I want to be the chef or something.”

Her dad, who is a restaurant boss, and once swore he’d never be in the business, likes the idea of his daughter one day working beside him.

“Yes, three generations,” Lee said. “I can’t wait.”

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